"davedave1111" (davedave1111)
05/13/2015 at 07:28 • Filed to: None
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"davedave1111" (davedave1111)
05/13/2015 at 07:28 • Filed to: None | 1
| 11 |
Hey Oppo, long time no see, I’ve been too busy to be on here lately - how are you all?
I need some quick advice. I’ve got a hole in my exhaust silencer (muffler). Do the paste&bandage repair kits (Gun Gum, etc) work, or should I just replace it?
If replacement is on the cards, the problem is that I know nothing about exhausts beyond the basic principles. They’re normally bolted together, right, not welded? So as long as the replacement fits, it should be a fairly easy job? And how specific are the fittings? Will it be a generic part in a standard size? What do I need to measure to get the right part?
TIA.
505Turbeaux
> davedave1111
05/13/2015 at 07:35 |
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1st: what kind of car - some are bolted, some are bolted and dont come apart, some have other issues
2nd: the bandage things don’t work on anything but a very small leak - and in that case save your money to just replace it and drive around with a slightly loud exhaust. That hole is just going to get worse.
CalzoneGolem
> davedave1111
05/13/2015 at 07:44 |
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You might be able to get someone to weld it up depending on how big the hole is. If it’s rusting then you’ll probably need to replace it. Is it causing problems or is it just loud? If this is your cheap ass beater I’d say fuck it and leave it be.
SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie
> davedave1111
05/13/2015 at 07:46 |
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Do the paste&bandage repair kits (Gun Gum, etc) work, or should I just replace it?
Don’t know. I’d be surprised if they can take the heat, though. Exhaust gasses are HOT. They do make a paste specifically for exhaust, but I don’t know how well they work.
If replacement is on the cards, the problem is that I know nothing about exhausts beyond the basic principles. They’re normally bolted together, right, not welded?
Depends on the car/where it is. The exhaust system is usually composed of at least three or four tubes connecting the resonator, muffler, cat, and header. Sometimes the cat is welded directly to one of these tubes, so if that’s the case and that part of the tube is where the while is, you’ll probably have to replace the cat too, which will be more expensive than it needs to be if it’s not broken. If it’s just a pipe and bolted in place, it’s a very easy replacement, but if your exhaust has a hole rusted in it, the bolts could be badly corroded.
And how specific are the fittings? Will it be a generic part in a standard size? What do I need to measure to get the right part?
Very specific. Different cars will have different bends to get around things in the chassis, the pipes will be a specific diameter, and flanges aren’t universal. I’d just look up the year/make/model on rockauto and see what the exhaust options are. If it’s something that will require cutting because large parts of welds, the cat, corroded bolts, etc, I’d probably just cut off that section and weld in a bit of pipe, though most local exhaust shops (not Meineke) should be able to do this for like $50-$75. It’s not hard.
pip bip - choose Corrour
> davedave1111
05/13/2015 at 07:50 |
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weld a small patch over hole.
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davedave1111
> pip bip - choose Corrour
05/13/2015 at 07:58 |
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If I could I would. But the only person I know who might do it for me is far enough away that it’s not worth it to save a few quid on parts - if the gun gum would work.
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davedave1111
> SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie
05/13/2015 at 08:24 |
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Thanks. It’s just the back-box that has the hole, so hopefully only that which needs replacing. Problem is, it’s UK spec so sites like Rockauto don’t have the right part numbers. I think after much googling I’ve finally tracked something down, though.
“if your exhaust has a hole rusted in it, the bolts could be badly corroded.”
Looks like it uses bolted flanges, so I can just grind out the bolts and replace, if necessary. But that’s one of the things making me wonder about giving the gun gum a go.
“I’d be surprised if they can take the heat, though. Exhaust gasses are HOT. They do make a paste specifically for exhaust, but I don’t know how well they work.”
Well, the manufacturer claims it can - and I get the impression it’s true at least to start with, if you get a gas-tight seal and let it cure properly. But I don’t know things like how hard it is to seal a big hole, and that kind of thing - plus I wondered about longevity.
The Gun Gum kit is only about £5, so it’s worth trying anyway except that it’s a horrible messy job.
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davedave1111
> CalzoneGolem
05/13/2015 at 08:29 |
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I probably could get someone to weld it. But if the Gun Gum will work, that’s easier and cheaper. It’s not massively loud as it is, but I’d rather have it quieter - and at most it’s not a very expensive replacement, so I think I would pay.
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davedave1111
> 505Turbeaux
05/13/2015 at 08:31 |
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It’s a 1989 Euro-spec Toyota Camry. Apparently they’re bolted flanges, although I expect rusted bolts are a given.
The size of the hole is something a bit larger than small, but not huge - and it’s in the flat side of the silencer can, so I thought if I could put a load of paste and then the metal wrap over the top, it’ll work if it covers everything - if it works at all.
It’s not that loud as it is, but it’s the only thing wrong with the car, so seems a shame not to fix it.
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CalzoneGolem
> davedave1111
05/13/2015 at 08:36 |
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I’d like to encourage you to try this and report back.
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505Turbeaux
> davedave1111
05/13/2015 at 08:36 |
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yeah flanges are a whole lot better than clamps. If the bolts are rusted a couple of seconds with a grinder or a sawzall and you are free. Just replace it from there back.
Not worth the paste work. If that is all that is wrong with it just ante up and replace it. Especially on a car that old. It will just get worse over time
BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires
> davedave1111
05/13/2015 at 09:50 |
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I’ve stuck a little tin plate over a hole in my mum’s exhaust silencer with Gun Gum before. That was 3 years ago and as far as I can tell it’s still holding fast :)
The hole itself was a little over 20p sized, and I bent a metal plate to follow the contour of the silencer, roughed up the underside of it so the Gun Gum would stick better, cleaned the silencer thoroughly and whacked it in place.
If you’ve got a blow-torch you might want to start the curing process with that rather than letting the exhaust gases cure it as per the instructions. I’ve found that if the part doesn’t get hot quickly (like a silencer), the pressure of the gas can blow a little hole through the gunk while it’s still squidgy.
I say give it a go :) worst case scenario you’re out all of £5 and an hour or so’s work. I’d even try and do it without taking the silencer off to save that hassle. Rusted exhaust systems can be real bastards :S